Shikoku: Four Lands, 88 Temples, and Pilgrims in White
Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's four main islands: about 18,300 km², four prefectures — Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi. The name 四国 means "four provinces" — after the old provinces of Awa, Sanuki, Iyo, and Tosa. The island's main story is the pilgrimage to 88 Buddhist temples linked to the monk Kukai: a route of about 1,200 km that people still walk today, calling themselves henro.
We'll look at why the "four provinces" in the island's name refer to old provinces, not states, and what the words 同行二人 on a pilgrim's hat mean. We'll also see how the custom of osettai is still woven into the pilgrimage today, and where else to go besides the 88 temples: to Sanuki udon, the Naruto whirlpools, and the old Dogo hot springs.
Shikoku on the Map: Four Provinces by the Inland Sea
Shikoku lies south of Honshu and east of Kyushu, separated from them by straits and the Seto Inland Sea. The island's area is about 18,300 km² — fourth among Japan's main islands. The island is divided into four prefectures — Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi — and three bridge routes connect it to Honshu, the last of which was completed in 1999.
| Prefecture | Kanji | Capital | Known for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tokushima | 徳島県 | Tokushima | start of the henro route, Awa Odori |
| Kagawa | 香川県 | Takamatsu | Sanuki udon |
| Ehime | 愛媛県 | Matsuyama | Dogo hot springs |
| Kochi | 高知県 | Kochi | open Pacific coast |
How Shikoku Differs from Neighboring Islands
Shikoku has no shinkansen line of its own: of the six passenger companies of Japan Railways, only the one serving the island has no high-speed route. Trains here run on ordinary narrow gauge, and the idea of a high-speed line to the island is discussed as a future project. Population density is also lower — among the four main islands, Shikoku is the least populous.
四国: Four Lands, Not Four States
The name 四国 is made of 四 "four" and 国 "province, land" — "four lands." The island was named after the number of provinces it was divided into: Awa (阿波, present-day Tokushima), Sanuki (讃岐, present-day Kagawa), Iyo (伊予, present-day Ehime), and Tosa (土佐, present-day Kochi). Each of the four modern prefectures stands exactly where one old province was — a rare case in Japan where borders have barely shifted.
国 — значение: country, land, province — онъёми: コク — кунъёми: くに — 8 штрих(ов). 国 — "province, land": on'yomi コク (koku), kun'yomi くに (kuni). In 四国 it keeps the old sense of "land, province," not the modern meaning "state" — the same character appears in 全国 (zenkoku, "the whole country") and 外国 (gaikoku, "foreign country").
| Japanese | Reading | Translation |
|---|---|---|
| 四国 | Shikoku · Shikoku | Shikoku — "four lands" |
| 遍路 | henro · henro | Pilgrim, pilgrimage to 88 temples |
| 讃岐うどん | Sanuki udon · Sanuki udon | Udon from the old province of Sanuki, present-day Kagawa |
| 徳島 | Tokushima · Tokushima | Tokushima — the prefecture on the site of Awa province |
| 島 | shima · shima | Island — a general word, not only for Shikoku |
Write 国 along the guides — the character for "province, land" that comes second in the name Shikoku.
Four Provinces That Are Not States
Before the reforms of the 19th century, the character 国 in Japanese place names almost always meant not "state" but province — an administrative unit like a region or a district. So 四国 is closer in meaning to "four lands" or "four provinces" than to "four states": this name never abolished a unified Japanese realm.
A 1,200 km Route: The Pilgrimage to 88 Temples
四国八十八箇所 — a route through 88 Buddhist temples around the whole island, linked to the monk Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi (774–835). The route is divided into four sections according to the number of old provinces. 23 temples in Awa — the "dojo of awakening the aspiration," 16 in Tosa — the "dojo of ascetic practice," 26 in Iyo — the "dojo of enlightenment," and 23 in Sanuki — the "dojo of nirvana."
A pilgrim on Shikoku is called henro (遍路) or respectfully o-henro-san, and walking the temples is called 打つ (utsu), "to strike": in the old days a pilgrim would nail a name plaque to the temple. Over the centuries the custom of osettai (お接待) took shape: local people offer passing pilgrims food, lodging, or simply kind words, expecting nothing in return.
The traditional walking route is about 1,200 km, and although many people today drive or take a bus, walking the pilgrimage remains a living practice. In 2015 the Shikoku Henro was added to the Japan Heritage list for its circular route, unique in the country, not tied to a single endpoint.
About the White Clothing and the Staff
The traditional henro outfit is the white garment hakui, the kongō-zue staff, and the conical sugegasa hat, on which is written 同行二人, "we go together, two." It is believed that even a lone pilgrim is invisibly accompanied by Kobo Daishi himself — hence the count of two, though the person may be alone on the road.
Shikoku's Hallmarks: Udon, Whirlpools, and Old Hot Springs
- Sanuki udon — thick wheat noodles from the former province of Sanuki, present-day Kagawa: the main local food, known far beyond the island.
- The Naruto whirlpools — in the strait between Tokushima and Awaji, their diameter on days of big tides reaches 20–30 meters; they are called among the largest in the world.
- The Dogo hot springs in Matsuyama — one of the three oldest onsen in the country, along with Arima and Shirahama: they are mentioned as early as the Nihon Shoki.
- Awa Odori — a street dance with almost 400 years of history, held every August in Tokushima and drawing the island's largest crowds.
- The Shikoku dog — a medium-sized breed developed in the mountains of Kochi; since 1937 it has been recognized as a Natural Monument of Japan.
What Lies Behind These Hallmarks
Udon, hot springs, and the dance are local versions of things common in Japan. But on Shikoku one feature holds them together: the island is small, and any local tradition quickly becomes known throughout the country rather than staying with one city.
FAQ
- Where in Japan is Shikoku located?
- Shikoku lies south of Honshu and east of Kyushu, separated from them by the Seto Inland Sea and straits. It is the smallest of Japan's four main islands, about 18,300 km², connected to Honshu by three bridge routes, the last of which opened in 1999.
- Which prefectures make up Shikoku?
- The island has four prefectures: Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi. Each stands on the site of one of the four old provinces — Awa, Sanuki, Iyo, and Tosa respectively — after which the island got its name.
- What is the pilgrimage to 88 temples on Shikoku?
- 四国八十八箇所 — a circular route through 88 Buddhist temples around the whole island, linked to the monk Kukai (774–835). Pilgrims are called henro, the traditional walking route is about 1,200 km, and local people have helped them for centuries with the custom of osettai: food, lodging, and kind words.
- Why is Shikoku called "four provinces"?
- The name 四国 is made of 四 "four" and 国 "province, land" and refers to the island's four old provinces — Awa, Sanuki, Iyo, and Tosa. Before the administrative reforms of the 19th century, 国 meant not a state but a provincial district, so "four provinces" is better understood as "four lands."
- What kanji is the name Shikoku written with?
- 四国, read しこく (Shikoku), with no long vowels in pronunciation. The first character 四 means "four," the second 国 means "province, land"; together the name translates as "four lands" — after the number of the island's old provinces.
- Is it true that Shikoku is also a dog breed?
- Yes: the Shikoku dog is a medium-sized Japanese breed developed in the mountains of Kochi Prefecture and recognized as a Natural Monument of Japan since 1937. The breed takes its name from the island, but it is not directly related to this page's topic — geography and language.
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Updated: 2026-09-22